UPbeat

When I boasted about how much I enjoyed traveling, little did I guess that my fortunes would take it that seriously. Now there is hardly any time when I am not traveling, but this time mostly on work. As usual, there have been things I have wanted to share, experiences I have desired to narrate added with my own little spices. Unfortunately, the job does not give me enough time to do so. But this time with a firm intention to pen them down, I am writing this while in a half-empty Volvo bus to the city of Taj. Only rarely do you find roads in UP where you can dare to type while on move, NH2 from Delhi to Agra is one of them.

allahabad: khusru bagh

For the uninitiated, I have been traveling all around UP (Uttar Pradesh, for clarity to the small town people). From the town where the gorgeous Sadhana once dropped her jhumka, to the town where our Don went bonkers over the lovely pans, to the modern day wedding of our Tanu and Manu, the state is as dramatic and filmy as their own CM.

My tryst with this wonderland started six months back. The first journey itself gave me good previews of what was about to follow. I had boarded one of those incredible auto-rickshaws in Ghaziabad which may be already in the race for Guinness world records for carrying as many as 18-20 big passengers on the 3-tiny-wheeled-vehicle. Apparently this sumo carrier was coming from Muradnagar and had this encouraging line written on the side panels, “Sherni nashe se choor hai, kaun kehta hai Ghaziabad Muradnagar se door hai”. For friends that boast knowing Hindi, this would mean that while the tigress is drunk and out, who would say Ghaziabad is far from Muradnagar. Now I know that the first line has nothing to do with the second, but look at the creativity of the author (probably the driver himself!). There is certainly a patriotic feeling attached, to this line on bridging distances. Another thought that swept across my mind – when the tiger census declared that only 1411 tigers were left, what if they missed our drunk tigresses! PJ!

On a broken road to Aligarh, I was somewhere around Sikandrabad when I happened to read a milestone reading ‘Kutte ki kabar’ (Graveyard for dogs, if I were to force translate). Yes, that was the name of the village/town I was reaching. Imagine a resident of this proud place saying, “Hi, I live in kutte ki kabar”. Would you get goose-bumps or would you laugh out loud?

agra: man vs wild

Talking of animals, you are sure how much Hindus are devoted to their holy cows when you are in the birthplace of Krishna – Mathura. In the busy market-places of Mathura, you see more cows than vehicles. If in any other town you see a cow coming at you, you would probably jump off miles away. But in Mathura, humans have a deep understanding with their goddesses. Same situation, and you will see both the sides gently pass each other, but not without a caressing touch. There is this one particular shop in a very busy market, where I have been rubbed by the cows not once, but every time I have stood outside that shop. It was scary first, but friendly the times thereafter. 

Sometimes it can also get challenging when you are against them. The snap alongside was taken in the lanes of Agra when we were trying to pass through an opposing gush of buffalos. Now that is Man against Wild in action!

varanasi: what-it-is-for-foreigners

I happened to be in Varanasi right during its festive season – the Maha Shivratri. With some great hospitality by my co-workers, I munched heavy on their local cuisines including some mouth-watering, rich sweets (malai-poori, rajbhog etc.), super-rich rabri, coolest kullhar-wali lassi and one of the best thandai I have ever had. Khoya seems to be high in demand in this place and that is precisely the reason why milk is quite expensive in Varanasi, ask a local and you will be surprised.

varanasi: thandai

Varanasi lives in its narrow but colourful lanes. I realized this more when my hosts were taking me to some place best known for its thandai. We walked through lanes to reach a shop which looked nothing more than a big hole in the wall. The man-in-dhoti served thandai in tall kullhars (earthen tumblers) to the crowd standing outside and below. But we were not supposed to be served there. We climbed up that hole and I quietly followed my hosts passing through some men doing the dishes, and there came a small four-walled enclosure where some customers sat wall-to-wall. It all appeared as if we had entered a mafia hideout. Nobody took any orders but they were fast to bring a tray full of tall glasses of thandai that were kept in front of each of the guests. I was quick to ask if the drink was bhang-free. Yes, it was because the bhang was served separately as a wet-green lump which some people gulped down like a medicine and drank the thandai over it. If Germans have a beer-fest, our Banarasi babus’ thandai fest is no less.

varanasi: the shiv-parvati dance

On the evening of Shivratri there is a type of procession that happens as part of a local celebration. It is called ‘Shivji ki baraat’. As the name clearly suggests, it is dramatized to represent mythology, apparently. But to me it was hilarious to watch so-called-Shivji’s-guests in the procession. There were people dressed as ghosts, animals, jokers, witches and what not. In one instance, a eunuch sat on a cart as part of the procession. My hosts called her out to show me some moves, “arey, sahib ko thoda naach dikhaiye”. The eunuch was actually lightening fast to respond to their request. She got up instantaneously and started dancing. I was more embarrassed than anything at that moment. Then there were little kids who were dressed as goddesses or something, but were more interested in the kurkure packets they were holding. The best one was the last cart that carried a boy and a girl dressed as Shiv and Parvati, respectively on it. This Shiv appeared more fun-loving, naughty and full of life, than the blue one found seated on mountains. This Shiv danced modern with Parvati, almost like a Salman Khan doing a didi-tera-dewar-deewana with Madhuri. Only the song was little more interesting, and the lyrics were somewhat like this – “Oh Ganesh ki mummy, mujhko bhi bhang pilaade naa. Oh Ganesh ke daddy, mujhko tu aur sataiyyo naa.” (Oh Ganesha’s mom, prepare me some bhang. Oh Ganesha’s daddy, do not bother me more.)

varanasi: parenting both faces of life

UP is not about politics, corruptions, goons and crime. It is an amalgamation of cultures, of world-renowned architecture and craftsmanship, of unmatchable delicacies, of celebration of life. With a place like that, you know I have lots more to tell. So I will be back with more narrations from the place. Till then, stay UPbeat!


Take a look at some snaps if interested...
https://picasaweb.google.com/siddartha.sherpa/UPbeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCKGysvrk-Oes1QE&feat=directlink#

Beauty & the Beach: Treasures of Gopalpur

Working with JSPL, Raigarh hardly gave me and my fellow colleagues any time for an outing (6-days working!). Two of my colleagues were married and our bhabhis repeatedly complained of getting bored at home while we go to work. Being a travel freak myself I wondered if I will ever get a chance to visit some of these nature's marvels we were surrounded with. And then, some 10 days ago, I realized that Diwali was on a Saturday, which gave us our first 2-days weekend, with most of us staying back in Raigarh. This triggered an idea to utilize it, but how!!

With my parents visiting Puri and around 15 days ago, I had done good research to identify some great places to visit in Orissa. And, after a much enthusiastic participation in the debate over the location to visit, we zeroed down on a plan to visit Gopalpur-on-sea and Chilika Lake. So thrilled I was I spent most of the time chalking out a plan for the two days; reading reviews on trains to take, hotels to stay, cars to hire, restaurants to eat, special food preparations to try and what not. But all that started paying off when we started our journey on the evening of Friday, October 16. The travelers were Manish, Sriharsha, Sameer, Gunjan, Sanhita bhabhi and me.

A train to Jharsuguda, Orissa and from there to Bhubaneswar, we had a Tavera waiting to take us to Gopalpur, a 3-hours drive. During the drive, we were accompanied by some beautiful hills, Chilika Lake on one side, and signboards greeting us to the nesting beach of the world-famous Olive Ridley turtles. We reached Gopalpur at 11am on Saturday, October 17 and found ourselves awe-struck with the view of the sea-waves splashing and crashing on a beach that could not have been cleaner and prettier than this. And spicing up the fun was the Hotel Sea Side Breeze, which resembled a cottage and the rooms were right there on the beach; any closer and it would be inside the sea. And if you thought such hotels would be expensive, be ready for the room-rents you are about to hear. INR 400/- for a double-bed room!! There there, close your mouth, because there are more interesting facts to come.

Impatience was at its new high, while we quickly changed and ran down the beach for a splash. In and out of the water we played with the smiley ball and frisbie, which Manish and Sameer had diligently purchased before the trip. From the reviews I had read, I knew that the sea here was not very safe. The waves were said to have a strong undercurrent and hence swimming was not advisable here. Bhabhi had also warned us of the loose sand in the waters, like quicksand. And with all the warnings, I and Bhabhi had to parent the other four kids, who were not ready to listen and would keep going further into the sea taken over by their new-found energy. We returned to our hotel at 1:30pm, for a lunch in the balcony of our room, which opened to the sea. With vegetarians always at a disadvantage in this part of the country, the food did not taste good. But I had no complaints, since the fish preparation was delicious, and I would not need anything more than that. After lunch we all crashed for a short but deep nap for the next 2 hours.

With all the phone alarms failing to wake us up on time, it was 4:30pm when I suddenly realized so. And we were only left with an hour for the close-by Lighthouse to shut-down for the visitors. We managed to reach the Lighthouse by 5pm, and climbed up the unending stairs to reach the top. Nonetheless we were totally rewarded for all the panting. The sight of the whole Gopalpur from top, the sea-horizon, the backwaters entering the land and casuarina trees below was one of a kind. We also saw the lighthouse light beginning to glow, right beside us. And after some photography, we climbed down to avoid the bright light.

It was completely dark by 6pm. And while Sameer and Manish unable to resist the waves went in the water again, we sat on the beach snacking on jhaal-muri and chana-masala. The waves had become stronger, and now the splash of the water started chasing us further away. And once again, it was difficult to take out our two boys out of the water, as they were totally enjoying the huge waves crashing onto the shore.

Being a Diwali evening we did not want to miss out on the festive fun too. And so, Gunjan and I borrowed a scooter with a dysfunctional headlight from the hotel caretaker, and went on a search for some crackers. Given the small village Gopalpur is, we could only find a few stalls emerging out of their homes, selling crackers with never-heard brand names. But what was interesting was discovering some locally made crackers. Even after buying so many of them, what we spent was a meager INR 300/-. One bomb that we bought in huge numbers was an ultimate value for money. Available for just INR 2/- per piece, it was made with canes and had an explosive sound. We named it the 'naxal bomb'.

After some amazing fireworks by the sea, we went out for dinner, to a much recommended restaurant I had read about. With a decent ambience, the restaurant had their waiters in Hawaiian shirts. Although the restaurant was visited so that our fellow vegetarian friends could find some decent food, they were once again disappointed by the preparations. On the contrary, I was thrilled with the idea of eating Crabs for the first time. Crab-masala and Pomphret Fish preparations, I was on a non-veg spree! Bhabhi taught me how to eat crabs (though she is a vegetarian herself) and I simply loved it.

After we returned to the hotel, we went to the beach again for some chit-chat by the sea. The moment I stepped onto the sand, I saw something ran past my feet. I was only wondering what it was, when suddenly our car driver called out to show us what stood and ran under his torch-light. Crabs, live crabs!! And they were so many! We were surrounded by them. They had come out in the darkness of the night. I had arranged for some beer, and I spent next hour running behind them with a camera in one hand and a beer in the other.

To wake up early morning was the plan. While bhabhi wanted to do some early morning photography, I wanted to try jogging on the beach, like John Abraham does in the Garnier ad. All dressed up in sports shoes I went onto the beach at 6am. The moment I started running, I discovered that the sand was quite loose, and every time I stepped hard, my shoes would sink in. It was embarrassing while some fishermen and other localites stared at my stupid attempt to run on such a land. I then decided to go for a walk along the shore. But in a few minutes, I found myself dodging the great Indian asses. The local villagers were all sitting along the shore, pooping! And unlike north where they at least hide behind bushes and trees, here they were sitting in wide open areas for all to see. I tried avoiding the sights by being as close to water as possible and constantly looking at the sea. But when I started walking back, I was greeted by the same asses again, and this time they were in the waters, washing! The whole idea that started with imitating John made me feel like a 'bheegi billi' of 9XM channel.

After some great splashes in the waves that were bigger and more forceful than the previous day, I tried my hand at sand sculpting. While the waves kept washing away my creations, a funny video was shot by bhabhi without my notice. Watch it if you want!

We checked out of the hotel at 10am on Sunday, October 18 and drove to Barkul by the Chilika Lake. Hiring a 7-seater boat to the Nalabana Island, famous for spotting migratory birds, we went on an hour-long boat journey on the Chilika Lake, Asia's largest backwater lagoon. Even though it was not a season to spot birds, we were thrilled by the island itself, which was almost completely submerged in the lake, leaving us only a few pieces of land to walk on. With little knowledge on birds, whatever we saw looked exotic. A pair of binoculars would have helped to watch these cool birds. And an icing on the cake was spotting a few dolphins on our return path to Barkul.

After feasting at the Pizza Hut in Bhubaneswar, we returned to the very same place where we started our journey from, only to wish we never had to come back.